Japan is unlike any place I have ever been. Tokyo and Kyoto were a feast for all the senses and a unique blend of old world traditional yet cutting-edge futuristic.
Here are some of the big highlights from my Japanese excursion.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden: This park is located in the middle of the fast-paced Shinjuku District. In December, it still felt like autumn with leaves and bushes bursting with blood red, burnt oranges and vivid yellows. The different style of gardens — the English garden, French garden and traditional Japanese garden — showcase the very diverse vegetation that grows in Japan. One area felt like a New England autumn with falling red and orange leaves, where another resembled an African savannah with yellow grass and canopy-like trees. The French Garden looked like the entrance of a French chateau with long lines of bushes and linear pathways. Similar to both Central Park and the Boston Public Garden, Shinjuku National Garden is a scenic, tranquil slice of nature that I, as well as many other exhausted tourists, enjoyed amid a frenzied metropolis.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: Ever since I was a small girl, I’ve had a thing for city lights. Even the dinky skyline of Hartford, CT — the closest “city” to where I grew up — sparked an awe in me. For those of us with this city light fetish..well, the Tokyo skyline is breathtaking in a way that a camera just cannot capture. For free admission, we rode an elevator to the top of this government building in the Shinjuku district. I stayed a solid hour and a half, awestruck as the sky went from sunset to solid night. Mt. Fuji is just a speck in the distance, surrounded by an endless sea of skyscrapers. The Tokyo skyline is so infinite, I felt I was in another world or a sci-fi movie, gazing out into into a never-ending bustle of lights, energy, activity and humanity.
Tsukiji fish market: This is not a mere fish market — it’s a market of the senses. This market is comprised of tight, bustling alley ways aligned with hole-in-the-wall restaurants and food and dessert stands that sell everything from sushi, ramen, smoked meat, coffee and —my newest obsession — mochi balls. Strolling through the Tsukiji fish market hit me with every scent and smell on the palate from sweet to savory, to fishy and smokey.
Shibuya crossing: Tokyo is crowded in a way I’ve never experienced in America — not even New York City on the most touristy days of the year. This five-way intersection is the best representation of Tokyo’s non-stop energy. Walking through Shibuya Crossing is like bracing yourself to be hit head-on with a wave of people..from five different directions. For the anxiety-prone tourist, these crowds can be unnerving. Luckily, Japanese culture is equipped to deal with high population density….
Discretion: I’ve traveled to enough places to know people are more alike than we are different. Still, certain “first impression” qualities stand out more in some cultures than in others. In Japan, people talk softly, walk quickly and take up little space.
Being an American traveling abroad can sometimes feel like having a bullseye sign stuck to my forehead, but Japan did not compel me to feel so guarded. Perhaps because it was so populated, nobody seemed to have time or interest in scamming or bullying tourists. Also, people were respectful. Even though fewer people spoke English — compared to in Europe, for example — they did their best to accommodate me by pointing to pictures, gesturing with their hands or doing their best with the few English words they did know. For that I say, “Arigatou gozaimasu!”
Spas: My travel buddy and I spent New Year’s Eve in pure zen. Spas and bathhouses are popular in Japan and relatively inexpensive compared to services stateside. Thermae-Yu featured several different baths and hot springs. But the spa was just as much of a cultural experience as a relaxation experience. A visit to one of these facilities requires strict protocol regarding washing, hair tying and covering tattoos. In Japan, tattoos are associated with the Yakuza, the Japanese mafia, and are regarded as so offensive that tattooed spa visitors are required to buy cloth coverings for their tattoos. I’ve never been so happy to be tat-free!
Heian shrine and garden(Kyoto): This tranquil, beautiful garden makes a brief appearance in the movie Lost in Translation. The garden was keenly hidden behind the Heian Shrine where a long line of people waited to give their blessings for the new year. It was loud and bustling until we found our way into the garden. The noise and chaos from the shrine steps evaporated almost instantly. The garden was lush with ponds, water lilies, stepping stones and diverse vegetation. We enjoyed ourselves hopping across the pond on stepping stones (just as the Scarlet Johanssen did) while taking in the still waters and beautiful scenery.
Fushimi Inari-taisha: This Shinto temple is a visually, striking shrine with winding paths and vivid, orange gates. The path goes two miles up to Mt. Inari while smaller shrines are located at several points along the way. The temple is a popular tourist destination so it can be difficult to fully take in the majesty of this place without the distraction of swarming crowds. Despite its reputation as a tourist trap, Fushimi Inari-taisha is still an aesthetically unforgettable experience.
